The rugged Rogue River is world famous for salmon fishing and whitewater rafting, but not for cycling. There is an absolute lack of services. This place was not built for us. There is no coffee shop. Parts are so desolate one wonders why there is a paved road at all.
Much of this lack of civilization is now by design. The lower Rogue River basin was designated a National Wild and Scenic site to preserve it for future generations in 1968. This route circumnavigates most of the Hellgate Canyon portion of the lower river. You only really see the river twice as you cross it, this route winds the endless precipitous hills and mountains that drain to the Rogue.
One could ride this route in either direction, starting near Galice or Agness. I chose to start in Daphne Grove a small campground along NF-33 for logistic and nostalgic reasons. The route starts paved and climbs for seven miles, never terribly difficult to the top of Agness Pass. The descent here is the roughest pavement of the ride, it’s pretty typical for Oregon Coast, just lots of crushed gravel with brake bumps in the corners. There is a lovely clearing part way down and you’ll be mostly thankful when the pavement starts again. As you get close the river there is a split to Agness itself, but the GPS route heads straight towards the bridge and towards Bear Camp Road. You’ll know you are on the right path when there are sign of no winter maintenance. The grade on Bear Camp is steady, never an ass kick but also no reprieve. The dense evergreen canopy of the coast range begins to fade to grasses and oaks. There is a few sections of missing pavement and there is some occasional vehicles over Bear Camp, often raft guide companies with a van and trailer. At the top is a small roadside pull out after you begin your descent.
You’re only 36 miles in and you should be questioning your ride and maybe your life decisions. The top section of the descent it rolling and pretty but maddening that you still must pedal sections. Eventually at the Mt. Peavine split you gain speed and can get off the pedals. The turns are wide and you can really let go with the consistent grade, I passed a car that had caught me on the top section. Eventually the roller coast winds down a couple miles till Galice which is mostly a collection of riverside lodges. There is seasonally a market called the Trading Post. They have basic convenient store options and there is a spigot that was working when I was there in June 2024.
The fun has only begun as you roll out of town. You cross the Rogue River once more, savor the view as the grade kicks up quite aggressively. At least you have a view for your suffering. Eventually the chipseal ends and becomes dirt but at that point you’ve got most the hard part done and the road levels as you skirt around Mt. Rueben. There are several small climbs and descents and you will be thankful to see pavement again as you intersect into Dutch Henry/Kelsey Mule Road. You’ve climbed over 10k’ at this point and while you are largely done there is still a series of climbs to get you over Mt. Bolivar and finally descending back to Eden Valley. A coyote led me across the valley and the forest took me in with the dense coastal lushness returning following tributaries of the Coquille River.
This is an epic day that is hard logistically but spiritually fulfilling. It is not for the expanses of volcanic views like others on here. It is for the remoteness, the feeling that the world is dense, full of life and wonder.
I grew up on the Oregon Coast and a few times per year would go to the valley South of Powers to camp with my father. In 2013 I got the idea to tour 800mi of Oregon and I rode the northern portion of this loop connecting Powers to Riddle, OR. We only saw one ranger truck that day. It was both enthralling and intimidating to be out so far with no resources. This day of riding has remained deep in my memory since.
Later I found a blog about a Cycle Oregon route from Grants Pass to the Coast on a different parallel road, Bear Camp, and this seeded the idea to link the two. After pouring over maps, heat maps and making several ill-fated 150+ mile versions I settled this must be the way.
If you don’t have time or resources for the full meal deal Bear Camp Road Loop is a good sample platter. Logistically it is much easier a short drive off I-5. The ride to and from Galice is somewhat trafficked but tolerable. Turning up Bear Camp starts off mellow up a creekside and picks up into a proper climb and you’ll be thankful for the long warm up. After some hard miles you will hit a three way intersection, it is worth taking a peek left to see the valley view before following the route to Mt. Peavine (Peavine – Serpentine Road). There some nice descents along the ridge but also some truly good kicks to reach the top. The descent is rowdy, steep with many pot holes. Keep on your toes and to blast back to Galice.
This route is very remote. People in vehicles have died getting lost in this area. Expect no cell service. On the northern portion you’ll likely see more wildlife than cars. If you have an issue you are on your own. This route is also extremely difficult to complete.
I rode fast rolling 45c slicks for the gravel and pavement. Had two large bottles and a 2L hydration pack, this was adequate while the temps were cool. With a decade+ racing experience and this route took me over 9hrs with a brief stop for candy and water. Galice has a seasonal market and so does Agness. Call to make sure they are open, these are rural towns with limited hours.
