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For weeks and months in 1980 the earth trembled. Then one May day the fury of hell was unleashed and ash rained from the sky. One of the biggest geological events in modern US history lays in Southern Washington. To the Cowlitz tribe the mountain was called “Loowit” which means “smoking mountain.” An incredibly foresightful name.
The eruption of Mt. St. Helens occurred just over 40 years ago. It left 57 dead and spit ash as far East as Minnesota. It scorched off foliage, ripped the limbs off trees and left them in rows like matchsticks. The explosion blew out the North side of the mountain, losing over 1000ft of the summit and created the largest landslide in recorded history. And that my friends, is exactly where we are headed.
We’re going to start this journey in Randle, WA. You can park near in the gravel near the bridge that crosses the Cowlitz River. You could also park up the road some, but because this ride starts off flat, but those flat miles are a nice warm up and the only flat miles you’ll see. Heading South on the Hwy131, which become NF25, you go from open river and shrubs into the canopy of the forest. Now the only real trick this entire ride is here, cross a small bridge about mile 10 and the road bends left but you want to go straight and start up NF26. If you do this the boom, achievement unlocked, your reward is less traffic as you ascend the mountain.
The climb starts out with a rude kick, but you settle in as the forest takes you in. Eventually it levels out and you have some easy miles as the sun pokes through from a clear cut, this respite a nice little gift. Enjoy it, as that was the appetizer. The main course starts soon. The lanes narrow as you soar through stands of alder. This second round of climbing is quite steady by NW standards, gaining 1600ft in around 5 miles as you follow Quartz creek. The higher you go the more sections of pavement become missing. After you cross Quartz the grade picks up until you come to one of the few possible turns, stay straight on NF26. Around here you begin popping out of the trees and the landscape begins more barren and rocky. It’ll all make sense, just keep climbing.
The next section is punchier both in steepness and the intermittent surface quality. It’ll keep you on your toes navigating skinny tires through patches of gravel. Near the top you see signs of some vehicles and trailheads. You ride up a final wall, and once you top it you come screaming down some dusty double track.
For the first time in hours you have a decision, right or left? Left takes you to NF25 and back to Randle. Right takes you up. Trust us, choose up. Windy Ridge opens up to panoramic views a barren mountain and lush hills below. Like many high alpine roads of the west, Windy Ridge itself is under constant bit of repaving due to the harsh winters and constantly shifting mountain.
There is a window of time after the snow is gone and before the gate is open to ride Windy Ridge car-free. If you can time it right this is some of the best car-free miles on in the whole West Coast. Though early season you will trade cars for dodging rocks scattered across the road. A worthwhile trade-off.
Eventually you get to the end of the road and views of Spirit Lake. Thousands of logs from the eruption are pushed to one end of the lake by wind. There is a bathroom but no running water. Take a snack break and head back the way you came. You will pass your NF26 turn off, but climb a little further. At this point you begin descending and you’re likely ready for it. Eventually you T into NF25, hang a left and it is tree canyon surfing for miles. Everything is clear sailing from here except for the occasional bad pavement to keep you on your toes (usually down lower). Around mile 57/58 there is a couple left turns to keep you headed back to Randle. Easy peasy. Maybe time for a dip in the Cowlitz.
This route is fairly alpine. There is no water on this route. When in doubt bring a third bottle.
The route is also quite exposed for a large section, so probably a bad idea on a really hot day. It’s probably also a bad idea on a cold and windy day.
